From the Road: A Taste of Wine Country

From Michelin-starred meals to bold wine pairings, discover the ultimate Northern California escape

Nearly 50 years ago, a Northern California couple purchased an old building with quite a history. During the Wild West era, it was a saloon, and then later it served as a large, French-style laundry facility. The enterprising couple would turn the space into a restaurant. 

As this restaurant’s reputation as a culinary mecca grew, so did the surrounding area’s reputation as a winemaker and wine lover’s paradise. 

The restaurant, as one might have guessed, is the French Laundry. That would make the surrounding regions Napa and Sonoma. 

Valley residents are likely already familiar with them. Perhaps some have even visited a time or two, given the direct daily flights between Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport and the Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport. But Napa and Sonoma are vast regions, not small towns with a few tasting rooms, so planning the perfect gastronomic adventure to the Northern California gem can be tough.

Do not try to do everything at once, because it is impossible. To give perspective, the combined region stretches roughly the distance from Phoenix to Sedona and boasts more than 800 collective wineries. Instead, choose one or two regions as home base, and then curate the itinerary with the best and brightest attractions in each.  

If seeking the ultimate culinary escape, look no further than the Wine Road and Yountville. 

Location. Location. Location.

The Wine Road is the collective name given to northern Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Dry Creek American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). It is also home to the Schulz airport and specializes in offering wine experiences that go far beyond a flight, glass or bottle at the bar.  

By way of example, Jordan Winery — a pioneer in Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon — invites guests into its 58,000-square-foot estate, which is designed as an homage to a French chateau, for its winery tour and tasting. During the experience, guests are whisked across the property and into the chateau to see grapes go from bud to bottle before being seated for a seated seasonal food and wine pairing prepared by the winery’s award-winning chef. 

Similarly impressive are J Vineyards, Dutton-Goldfield and Capo Creek. 

At J Vineyards, enter a world of enchantment via The Bubble Room. The expansive winery dining room boasts chandeliers designed to look like delicate sparkling wine bubbles as far as the eye can see. During this experience, guests will indulge in a seven-course meal inspired by the bounty of Sonoma County. Each course is paired with wine, notably J’s signature bubbles, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 

Dutton-Goldfield pushes tastebuds out of their comfort zone with a sushi and wine pairing — the vintners partner with Hana Sushi, who handmake selections by reservation only. At first glance, sushi and red wine may seem like an odd pair, but one taste of salmon with these small-production reds will prove otherwise.

Capo is all about refined comfort food. The winemaker is also a doctor, mother of six and chef with Midwest roots, so she seeks to combine her handcrafted, limited-production varietals with recipes of her own design that she might make for a celebration among her large family. The only thing that rivals her prowess for pairings is the view of nearly the entirety of Dry Creek that may be enjoyed while dining.

Certainly, there are more transitional dining experiences to be had as well, many thanks to rising culinary all-star chef Dustin Vallette. Over the past decade, he has opened Vallette, The Matheson and Roof 106 along the Wine Road in downtown Healdsburg. The region is also home to contemporary American powerhouse Spoonbar, celebrity chef Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen and Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola Winery, where Coppola himself vets the menu regularly.

Bonus: There are dozens of boutique and large-scale hotels tucked into every corner of the region, notably modern, chic Montage Healdsburg and The Ruse, a refined, modern take on a traditional bed and breakfast.  

Yountville

In Napa, there are no bigger fish in the culinary sea than Yountville. 

Home to far more than Thomas Keller’s dizzyingly delicious French Laundry, Yountville is the epicurean epicenter of Napa’s wine country. Its walkable downtown alone is home to a Who’s Who of James Beard Foundation and Michelin Star darlings, including The Restaurant at North Block, Ciccio, Bistro Jeanty, RH Yountville, Bottega Napa Valley, Ad Hoc, Lucy Restaurant & Bar, R&D Kitchen and Bouchon Bistro. And while not as tenured as its esteemed sister eateries, downtown’s RO Restaurant & Lounge is making mouths water nightly with its Asian-inspired and caviar-forward menu, designed by Keller himself, as well as its impeccable sparkling wine and champagne selections.

The downtown is also home to a slew of experiential wine tastings thanks to Silver Trident, Priest Ranch and Hestan Vineyards.

Silver Trident is a full-sensory experience that captures the eye first thanks to its head-to-toe Ralph Lauren-outfitted salon. Once seated in one of the plush experience spaces, the room fills with a bouquet of berries and spice as the wines are poured. But then, what is that familiar-yet-umami flavor? That would be the current pairing available onsite in the form of pizzettas, which are handcrafted mini pizzas topped with everything from truffle and duck confit to short rib and jam.

Priest Ranch aims to surprise guests with its pairings as well. Currently guests may choose from what they call a bacon pairing, which is an ultra-high-end pork belly wine pairing, or a new reservation called Eat Dirt. No, it is not real dirt, but handcrafted chocolates designed in collaboration with Chris Kollar, one of Dessert Professional Magazine’s “Top Ten Chocolatiers of North America.”

Hestan, in contrast, does not offer a formal food pairing. Instead, it offers a “by reservation only” semi-private experience to taste their coveted wines while perusing the finest cookware in the world. Yes, they are those Hestans, as in the kitchen pioneers heavily credited for changing the cookware industry.

Also new to the sip scene, handcrafted brewery Mad Fritz just opened a taproom in town for those looking for a refreshing break from all the wine.

While all of these eateries and tastings are within walking distance from each other — as is the sublime North Block Hotel, a boutique hotel limited to just 20 rooms but complete with a luxury spa and award-winning restaurant — there are notable vineyards for those willing to drive a few miles, including Chandon, which offers a five-course culinary journey with locally sourced delicacies prepared and presented in such a way that they enhance the wines while deliciously confusing the palate. 

For more information, visit wineroad.com and yountville.com.