Rusconi’s American Kitchen, 3 Stars

Michael Rusconi didn’t spend three years putting together the new Rusconi’s American Kitchen in order to develop a trendy, cutting-edge concept. He didn’t do it to lure deep-pocketed tourists, like those who filled the seats at Lon’s at the Hermosa Inn during his five-year stint. And the restaurant’s formulaic menu strongly indicates he didn’t do it to tempt sophisticated diners looking for a culinary challenge, or to impress seen-it-all critics, either.

At top: The short-rib appetizer with chocolate chile sauce at Rusconi’s Kitchen in Phoenix

Photo by John Samora/The Arizona Republic

Text by Howard Seftel, The Arizona Republic

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