First Bite: Bianco’s Italian Restaurant

At his new, generically named Italian Restaurant, Chris Bianco’s dream is to run an old-school trattoria whose small, daily-changing menu spotlights both classic home-country dishes and the Italian-American favorites of his Bronx childhood.

Dream on.

Bianco may have been imagining an unpretentious, laid-back, urban neighborhood hangout, where folks wander by to relax over a glass of wine and some homemade mozzarella, a small bowl of pasta or plate of meatballs. You know, probably just like Bianco and his pals did 30 years ago at his old Big Apple haunts.

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