Well Done: Wright’s
We often lament the loss of fine dining
restaurants in the Valley. Where do we go for
that “date night” or a special occasion? Where
can we find a lovely, white-tablecloth restaurant
with elegance and ambiance, gracious service
and the glorious absence of noise?
We found the answer at Wright’s, located in the
Arizona Biltmore Hotel and Spa. The stodgy formality
of the old “L’Orangerie” is gone, and what has evolved
through various incarnations is a beautiful restaurant,
still much a part of the Biltmore in appearance and feel,
but updated to meet today’s tastes and cuisine. The
old classics have been reshaped and reborn, delighting
both the serious diner and someone who simply wants
a delicious meal.
Bread service offered a unique variety of wonderful and unusual breads. A seasonal assortment of Pumpkin Spice Bread, Date and Fig sourdough bread, Golden Raisin and Fennel, and the always-delicious brioche made the choice difficult; thus we had all four.
Seared foie gras was extraordinary. Cooked flawlessly, it was accompanied by a garniture of duck confit, sweet potato, apple and honey gastrique. The wonderful blend of textures and flavors was remarkable. The gravlax was house prepared, served with tri-color beets, salmon roe and crème fraiche. My only disappointment was that I would have loved a few more slices of this delicious and succulent starter.
Those preferring a salad would thoroughly enjoy a Caesar Salad with the unique addition of Brussels sprout leaves, tender – yes tender – baby kale, Parmesan and the most subtle addition of white anchovy.
The Waldorf salad is a play on the original version served at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York, with roasted apple, celery root, grapes and walnut vinaigrette – not a hint of mayo to be found. For those less adventurous, the Shrimp Cocktail had four sizeable shrimp, cooked to tender perfection and served with the traditional and tasty cocktail sauce.
Rack of lamb was tender and simply delicious. Served with
sunchoke, leek, arugula, mint pesto and lamb jus, it was
impossible not to pick up the bones to devour every morsel
of meat. Sea bass was moist and flavorful, beautifully The Waldorf Salad
presented on a bed of pine nut cassoulet and served with
root vegetables and a smoked tomato beurre blanc.
Bouillabaisse is traditional in taste and presentation, but abundant in fresh seafood – clams, mussels, calamari, shrimp and scallops in a light saffron fish broth. Grilled baguettes came in handy to soak of the delicious juices. Other choices included a deconstructed Lobster Thermidor, and our server’s favorite, Steak Bordelaise, served with duck fat potatoes, port wine onions and a bone marrow demi-glace.
Soufflés were offered when we placed our order as they require significant time. We ordered one for the table; it didn’t disappoint. A new take on a personal favorite, Boston Cream Pie, blended vanilla pound cake, rich diplomat crème, chocolate mousse and chocolate truffle, was rich, yet a perfect end to a delicious meal. As one might expect, the wine list is ample, with offerings at almost any price level you might desire.
One has a tendency to expect little from hotel dining. Trust me. Wright’s is a wonderful restaurant that just happens to be located in a beautiful hotel.
Reservations are suggested at 602-381-7632. Valet parking is available. Located at 2400 Thunderbird Trail in Phoenix, Wright’s is open 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily, offering a delicious Sunday Brunch as well, at a most reasonable cost.
Text by Susan L. Jones, a restaurant reviewer with a sophisticated palate and a frequent restaurant diner in the Valley and around the world. As Susan comes across noteworthy dining experiences, she will share them with azredbook.com readers.
